Quality Food -- Is it taste, nutrition, freshness, safety or appearance?

What is quality?

One of the frequent challenges in growing produce for our customers is to judge whether a given piece or batch of a product is of adequate quality to go in our CSA share boxes. One of the “rubs” is whether produce with blemishes should be included in shares, or not....

There are several food quality markers that compete for priority in the U.S. market. I think of values such as appearance, safety (purity), freshness, nutrition and taste.

Without a doubt, appearance ranks high in the supermarket. Food sold there must be of uniform size, appealing color, free of blemishes, and attractively packaged. So much so, that oranges sold in the supermarket have often been painted to deepen their orange color!

I think all eaters would agree that safe food is another major value. We would like to be able to assume that our food is free of dangerous substances or bacteria that could cause illness. Clearly, recent events have shown that food safety can not always be taken for granted. Even the humble spinach has been the source of bacterial poisoning outbreaks. (Interestingly, the government allows consumers to buy and eat both raw spinach and raw oysters, and does not first require that they be “pasteurized” before being sold – but I digress.)

Consumers have been slow to recognize that chemical contamination of food (with low levels of pesticide or other residues), while much more insidious than bacterial contamination, may represent an even more important health risk in the long term. To give some perspective, I have read that “Chilean grapes” available in the stores during the winter have, on average, 4 times the pesticide residue of grapes sold in-season, grown in this country. Unfortunately, most of these details are simply not available to the average consumer. This is a strong argument for buying chemical-free or organic foods.

Another food value is “freshness,” closely tied to a related value, “flavor.” Many foods just taste and look better if eaten fresh. As a kid, I thought asparagus was absolutely disgusting. I don't think I ate any asparagus except out of a can, until I visited Rita's family and ate fresh asparagus from their garden – a very different food experience!

Today, many (even most) foods travel hundreds and thousands of miles before arriving at our table. As a result, produce is often harvested at an unripe stage, and sometimes (in the case of tomatoes) even subjected to chemical treatment to ensure “ripening.” In terms of flavor, most of us have eaten cafeteria tomatoes with a pale pink color, and the texture and taste of plastic! The travesty is that this is often the case even when fresh local tomatoes are in season at the local farmers' market!

Many consumers are not aware that even the varieties grown for mass transportation and marketing, are chosen for their ability to handle long delays after harvest, and the extra handling and jostling that transportation requires. In other words, varieties must be “tough” more than “tender and flavorful.” The opposite is generally true when you buy varieties sold by local growers.

Nutrition is a tricky value to work with, depending on what we consider most important. In this day of abundant food, vitamins and minerals are in plentiful supply, and are often added to our foods (such as cereals and milk). But what about “negative nutrients,” such as simple sugars and high-fructose corn syrup? Many supposedly “nutritious” cereals, for example, are overloaded with these sugars, leading to significant negative health consequences.

Also, fresh whole foods arguably may provide more ultimate nutritional benefit than foods supplemented with individual chemical nutrients. From a health nutrition viewpoint, I think Michael Pollan is right when he advises against choosing foods with more than a few listed ingredients! His 2009 book In Defense of Food is an excellent exploration of these issues.

I could go on to include other values that are unfamiliar to most consumers, such as local vs. long-distance, embedded petroleum energy and “carbon footprint,” food justice (“fair trade” issues impacting the growers), and purchasing patterns that directly benefit local small farmers and artisans. But this article is getting too long, and that would be “preaching to the choir” anyway, at least for most of our Sunny Slope Farm customers!

So, back to the original question: What about appearance? Clearly, as growers, we at Sunny Slope Farm put a high priority on safety (chemical-free and grown carefully to avoid contamination with harmful germs). We also value taste, nutrition and freshness, all common features when you choose locally grown produce. But how important is appearance? When 50% of a batch of green beans have little blemishes from being “munched on” by competing 6-legged consumers, do those beans go in CSA shares or not?

Let me say that appearance is important to us! Typically, 70-80% of what we harvest is suitable for our share standards. But this is variable. Once in awhile, the “munchers” have carried the day, and we must decide whether to include any of that product, with blemishes, or just forego it completely. Sometimes, Rita and I disagree on this one. I tend to put more weight on the fact that blemished produce is still safe, flavorful, and nutritious. But, often we send out the (relatively) unblemished produce, while we get to enjoy a generous supply of the “seconds”, which suits us fine! We're sure that occasionally blemished produce gets past us and into boxes, and we apologize if that happens (and welcome your feedback to bring this to our attention).

But, at the end of the day, when it comes to defining quality, contrary to the mass market, we at Sunny Slope Farm will put appearance as a secondary priority, ensuring that safety and flavor remain our highest goals.

An herbal salad dressing

Spring herbs are a wonderful fresh addition to your menu. Our late spring shares include several fresh herbs -- garlic chives, cilantro, oregano, and dill.

A little cilantro chopped into a salad adds a touch of zest. Garlic chives can be substitued for garlic in some recipes. Many foods will be jazzed up with a garnish of fresh herbs.

One of our favorites is a ranch-style dressing using several of the fresh herbs. Try experimenting with this recipe to suit your preferences.

Whisk (or blend in blender) the following together:

2 cloves garlic (minced or mashed) OR 24"-36" chopped garlic chives
1/2 tsp. salt
1 cup mayonnaise
1/4-1/3 cup milk
2 Tbsp. parsley (or try fresh finely chopped cilantro instead?)
2 Tbsp. fresh dill, finely chopped
1/2 tsp. Onion powder
1 tsp. vinegar
dash pepper

RADical RADishes -- Marinated Radish Salad

Sometimes, we're surprised by what actually grows well in the garden in a particular year. But, radishes never surprise. They almost always seem to grow like gang-busters in the spring, and this year they're particularly abundant, large and mild.

When we're trying to dream up things to do with radishes besides slicing into salad, or eating raw with a little salt, this recipe adds a little variety:

Marinated Radish Salad (from Simply in Season)

8 large bunches radishes
8 green onions
1/4 cup chopped fresh dill, or 1 Tbsp dill seed

Combine.

1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup lemon juice
1 tsp. sugar
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
1/2 tsp. salt
pepper to taste

Stir together, pour over radish mixture, and toss lightly. Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours but no longer than 4. Remove 30 minutes before serving. Stir.

6 ounces Swiss cheese (shredded)
Sprinkle on top and serve.

Let us know if you need more radishes for this or other recipes. And please do share any favorite other recipes for radishes!

To Be or Not To Be (Organic)?

Organic or Not Organic?

Sunny Slope Farm supports the production of “organic” foods as a healthier alternative for people and a more sustainable alternative for the environment.

The main features of organic foods are:
-- they are produced without using potentially dangerous chemicals like insecticides and herbicides, which leave measurable residues on conventional industrially-produced foods.
-- they are produced by using “natural” fertility agents and techniques, including “natural” soil amendments, composts, manures, and cover crops.
Organic production techniques, especially small-scale, result in safer foods, healthier soil, no release of poisons into groundwater and air, and measurably higher nutrient composition. They also reduce the dependence of food production on petroleum and petroleum-intensive chemicals and fertilizers.

In recent years, the label “Organic” has legally come to mean “certified by the USDA.” This means, in practice, following a fairly rigid set of rules and standards, and paying large annual certifying and inspection fees. It unfortunately does not require or guarantee that food was raised sustainably (without large energy inputs from petroleum), or that all inputs be certified as organic (regulations allow the use of manures from non-organic farms, which may contain antibiotics and other chemicals). It also does not mean small-scale local food production; most “organic” food is actually produced on large factory farms (with their attendant problems for the environment, and for animal and human health). And finally, it does not require that meats, milk or eggs be produced humanely -- ie. on pasture. In fact, much “certified organic” food is actually raised in factory-style confinement facilities.

Sunny Slope Farm is not "certified Organic" (USDA). However, like many small local producers across the country, we do subscribe to the original “organic” philosophy (ie. before USDA certification):

-- in avoiding pesticides, antibiotics or hormones in our production
-- in the use of composts, manures, and cover crops for as much of our soil fertility as possible, and only using minimal amounts of gentler artificial fertilizers where needed
-- in incorporating soil amendments which improve the biological health and fertility of our soil
-- in providing pasture and natural foraging as the primary living environment for all of our animals
-- in raising healthier meats and eggs, through shifting to reliance on grass rather than grain in their production.
-- in marketing fresh foods only, at the peak of their quality and nutrition

You as the customer will notice the difference, not only in food quality, but also in the peace of mind that comes from knowing that your food is healthier, free of chemicals, and produced wholesomely and humanely.

"Just What the Doctor Ordered..."

During 20 years of primary care medical practice, I became more and more concerned about the deteriorating health of my patients, largely due to unhealthy lifestyles. While smoking and sedentary living are very important, diet is an equally huge issue. The explosion of obesity in America is already causing havoc in our health, and promises to become an increasing issue. The result is that, for the first time in our history, the next generations are expected to have a shorter life expectancy than their seniors.

Obesity is a leading cause of diabetes, high blood pressure, high cholesterol and joint pain, to name a few. Unfortunately, when it comes to treating obesity or its results, the doctor’s favorite tool (prescribing chemicals of various sorts) is a dead-end street.

As a physician, I think it’s important to be more involved in modelling and promoting healthy foods. For me, this means growing and eating foods that are simpler, unprocessed, not loaded with high-fructose corn syrup and other sweeteners, direct from the producer, and not tainted by potentially harmful chemicals (like pesticides, antibiotics, and hormones).

This is what Sunny Slope Farm is all about:
-- providing chemical-free fruits and vegetables, and healthy pasture-raised meats and eggs
-- as a healthy alternative to the standard processed, industrial, fast-food American diet.

Merlin Friesen MD

Rhubarb Sauce & Chive-Topped Focaccia

At our recent open house, 2 recipes jumped out.

You’ll really like the sweet’n’tangy Rhubarb Sauce, topping angel food cake or some
other plain cake, or going on vanilla ice cream.

Rhubarb Sauce (from Simply in Season)

4 cups rhubarb (chopped)
1/2 cup honey or 1 cup sugar
1 Tbsp. tapioca
1 tsp. ground cinnamon (optional)

Combine. Let stand for 10 minutes or until some juice forms. Heat slowly to boiling.
cool and serve. Or try stirring in sliced strawberries or raisins and serve for breakfast or
as a side dish, in place of applesauce.

---------------------------
For an interesting bread/pizza addition, try this
Chive-topped Focaccia (from Simply in Season)

1 cup warm water
1 Tbsp. active dry yeast
Combine in a large bowl, stirring until yeast dissolves.

1 cop whole wheat bread flour
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 1/2 tsp. salt
1 Tbsp. sugar
Mix in, stirring until smooth.

1 3/4 - 2 1/4 cup bread flour
Add enough additional flour to make a stiff dough. Knead 8-10 minutes until elastic.
Place in greased bowl, turn to grease both sides, cover with a damp cloth, and allow to
rise until doubled in bulk, 45 minutes.

Handful finely-chopped basil
Fold into dough, kneading only as much as needed to distribute evenly. Cover and let
dough rest 10 minutes. Pat and stretch to fill a greased 10x15-inch jelly roll pan. Lightly
rub top of dough with olive oil. cover lightly with a damp cloth. Let rise 10 minutes.
Top with chopped chives and bake in preheated oven at 450 degrees until the crusst is
lightly browned, 12-20 minutes. If bottom gets brown before top is done, finish under the
broiler. Serve immediately.

Serve with a green salad for a light summer meal. Try other toppings: pesto, sun-dried
tomatoes, olives, mushrooms, halved cherry tomatoes.

Spring Greens, Salad Turnips and Sunchokes!

First CSA shares went out today, including several varieties of lettuce, several types of other salad greens, as well as salad turnips and rhubarb.


We really like the delicate Black-Seeded Simpson lettuce,

as well as the coarser but very sweet Buttercrunch.

This time of year the heavy rich flavor of Red Romaine is a treat.

Later, you may also see the more delicate fine-leafed Salad Bowl, either green or red.

You'll notice that we're doing a little different growing technique, with more big heads of lettuce, rather than the dense beds of fine leaves. It seems to grow better that way, and is easier to handle. As the days grow warmer, it becomes more and more of a challenge to get the lettuce to you in excellent condition -- though we are learning a few tricks to help this.

In the shares, we'll also be packing Mizuna, Arugula and Tatsoi.

Tatsoi is a round dark leaf on a thick stem. It's sweet and crunchy and very mild.

Arugula, also known as "Rocket", is a long oval green leaf with a very aromatic (some say "nutty") taste -- a little goes a long way as an interesting salad addition, but too much can easily dominate the flavor of the salad.

Mizuna, a Japanese green, has a ragged leaf shape. Although it's a relative of mustard, it has a mild pleasant flavor.

Here is some spinach that over-wintered in the greenhouse. The spring spinach is still small and growing pretty slowly.

Salad Turnips are a very sweet juicy type of white turnip, also of Japanese origin. They are eaten raw, in chunks or slices, or included in a salad. They are remarkably different from the fall cooking turnips, with only a hint of the taste that dominates the fall turnips so strongly. I really enjoy them, while the fall turnips just don't impress me.

Sunchokes are a type of sunflower with an edible root, very similar to a water chestnut. The root can be scraped or peeled, then cut in chunks or slices for a tossed salad, or added to a stir-fry.

We hope you enjoy all these interesting Spring veggies!

Merlin